In search of some humanity

Cusco is delightful – with all the splendour of a church-filled European city with the spiciness of Latin American culture. The old town is a web of narrow cobblestone roads threading between beautifully preserved architecture. And every few metres there is someone to target you, a gringo, to offer you a tourist transport deal or to encourage you to come to your restaurant. It’s incessant. You just need to keep your eyes up on the golden light of the lamps and enjoy the ambience.

It was under these golden lights in the main square two nights ago that our good friend Alex, who after our Atacama trip together we’ve run into in Potosí and Sucre, spotted us and joined us. It was so lovely to see him again – and also says something about how most travellers follow the same route.

On Saturday, we joined a walking tour and otherwise explored the winding streets of the old town. We found a talented barista, a delicious falafel joint, joined a yoga class and vegan dinner, and found a few bars with salsa music for a dance. One of my favourite moments – and this sounds so small – was enjoying the light through the flowers at the table of a cafe.

Yesterday, we joined Alex and his two Argentinian friends for a mission out to Laguna Huamantay (it looks like ‘humanity but it’s pronounced ‘wah-mun-thai’). We hired a car together, and set out on the three-and-a-half hour drive to the start of the walk. It was a stunning drive along a huge valley, set to Dan’s excellent soundtrack featuring heavily Ziggy Alberts and Calle 33.

After the long drive, we set off on a sustained uphill climb to the lake. When we arrived, the encircling mountains were largely shrouded by clouds, but after a brief but heavy (and also freezing and a bit miserable) downpour, the sky opened up to the most incredible view of blinding white snow over the bright blue-green of the lake, with its dusty honey-coloured shores.

We spent hours up there, and it was quite late by the time we started the long drive home – this time to Alex’s impressive playlist of Spanish and Portuguese songs as we attempted to sleep while the car jolted us across the sharp gravel.

We’ve extended our pre-trek stay by another day so we can enjoy a Sunday exploring the Incan ruins near the city and get ready for what will hopefully be a super challenging and rewarding trek to and from the Choquequirao archeological site.

VRPS

[Cusco]